Cycling the Pyrenees border passes

Col de Banyuls, close to the mediterranean coast

The Pyrenees is the natural border between France and Spain. There are a lot of asphalted passes in the Pyrenees, some in the french side, some in the spanish side, but only some of them are exactly with the border at the top, having one side from France and one side from Spain.

Usually the french side is longer, steeper and colder, being on the north face. Worth to know this information when planning a cycling tour in the Pyrenees.

Let's have a quick list of all of them, starting from east to west, from the catalan Pyrenees to the Basque Pyrenees.

1. Coll de Banyuls (355 M) This is the most eastern proper mountain pass in the Pyrenees linking the coastal french Banyuls sur Mer with the little known village in Girona called Espolla. Very steep french side, longer, milder and nicer the catalan side.
2. Col de Pertus (290 mts). This is a historical pass, the lowest point to cross the Pyrenees. The main road is filled with cars and traffic, totally avoidable. Nevertheless in the Pirinexus route goes through this easy pass avoiding the road in a gravel path.
3. Costoja (830 mts) Little unknown pass in Girona province, even if it is a wide nice road. The starting point in Spain is the village called Tapis, and on the french side there is a village close to the top called Costoja, (Coustouge in french).
4. Coll de Manrella (637 m) Even smaller and less known pass than the previous Costoja. There is a monument dedicated to the people who exiliated to France through this tiny pass after the Civil war in Spain. Solitaire road, in fact there is about 1 km gravel path on the french side.
5. Coll d'Ares (1513 mts). Possibly the most known border pass in Girona province. Again, the french side is much more demanding. 32 km long from Arles sur Tech, or 14 km from Prats de Molló. On the way to Coll d'Ares you can collect other cols as Col de la Seille (1185 m) and Col de la Guille (1194). Interesting for the climbs collectors, type Club des cent Cols.



Monument at Portillon (spanish side)

6. Col de Portillon (1293 mts). As usual, the french side from Bagneres de Luchon is much steeper than the spanish one from Bossost. The spanish side has some milestones remembering the spanish winners in the Tour de France, and there is a monument dedicated to them at a viewpoint half climb.
7. Tunnel de Bielsa (1820 mts). This tunnel was opened in 1976 and is 3 km long. The tunnel connects the Lleida spanish province with St Lary Soulan and Fabian, on the french side, starting points of big climbs as Lac d'Aumar, St Lary Soulan or Pla d'Adet.
8. Puerto de Somport (1650 mts) This pass has a couple of remarkable characteristics: 1) It is a very old historical pass and there was a train line crossing Spain-France, the Canfranc train station is huge and now with no use, just the touristic visits 2) there is a tunnel to get through the mountain which we cyclists should avoid to reach to the top. 3) There is a very known ski station on the spanish side called Candanchú.
9. Portalet (1794 mts) Same as Somport, bot climbs are included in the "Quebrantahuesos", the most famous sportive (Granfondo) in all of Spain. The starting point of Portalet on the french side is the same as the almighty Aubisque, in a crossroad a little after Laruns.
10. Larrau (1573 mts) This climb was included in Tour de France 1996 for the first time. Such a discovery and such a climb especially, again, from the french side. Terribly steep.
11. Pierre St Martin (1760 mts) Pierre St Martin is the highest road in Basque Pyrenees. In fact there are 7 sides of this monster climb, just one from Nafarroa and other six in France. Included in Tour de France 2015 with big show and victory of Chris Froome. Click on link to learn more about the seven sides. 

    

    Col d'Izpegi, beautiful

12. Izpegi (690 mts). Simply beautiful. An amazing pass specially the side from Saint Etienne de Baigorry in France. This pass is often included in the Transpyrenees trips, and also makes part of the famous "Route des Cols" in the Pyrenees.
13. Ibardin (316 mts) This little climb has been included in Itzulia (Vuelta al Pais Vasco) several years ago. 
14. Lizuniaga (219 m) Little pass from Bera de Bidasoa with a Hotel on top.

 Now there is no police control on every border pass, but there was a time when it was, not so long ago...

Steep climbs in La Cerdanya (Catalonia)

Map including the main climbs in La Cerdanya

La Cerdanya is a catalan region, close to the border with France, which main city is Puigcerdà.
This is a fantastic ski region, but not so known for the cycling, which is also great.
La Cerdanya is a big valley reaching to Andorra on the main road N260. There are a lot of climbs on both north (french) and south (spanish) sides.

The most popular climb around Puigcerdà is probably Collada de Tosas, the natural link with the rest of Catalonia. This is an amazing 25 km long climb (on both sides) . Volta a Catalunya has included several stage endings at La Molina ski Station (very close to Collada de Tosas and in fact on the way to it), another famous climb in La Cerdanya.

Also starting in Puigcerdà is Col de Puymorens (1915 m), on the way to Col d'Envalira and Andorra. Puymorens is a high road in the Pyrenees, a little busy though, specially on the way to Ax les Thermes!

Talltendre, a climb for die-hard cyclists

Cap de Rec, very interesting (and long) climb

Being in the border with France, it is worth mentioning some nice climbs on the french side, such as Osseja, Puigmal Ski Station or Lac de Builloses.

But let's present a couple of nice (and steep) climbsin La Cerdanya, not-so-known. First one is Talltendre, a true killer-climb with some passes over 18%. No exit road, you have to come back same way you climbed. Total distance of the climb is 7,8 km and the height at the top is 1575 m. See elevation profile attached.

The second interesting climb I want to introduce is Cap de Rec. This is a much longer an higher climb, not so steep though. The road leading to this shelter is the same that the one leading to Aranser Ski station, and then half the climb there is a deviation to Cap de Rec. They are 16,4 km, and the elevation at the top is 1986 meters, very close to 2000.

You noticed that there are plenty of interesting climbs in La Cerdanya valley in Catalonia. Worth a visit!

Portet d'Aspet, a crash made this climb famous

Nice statue remembering Fabio Casartelli

Portet d'Aspet is one of those not-so-known climbs in the french Pyrenees. The fact that made it famous was the fatal crash of the olimpic champion Fabio Casartelli in Tour de France 1995. Those years when wearing the helmet was not mandatory.
Fabio Casartelli had won the cycling race in 1992 Barcelona Olimpic games (at that time professional athletes could not compete in the Olimpic games). He was a cyclist with a great future ahead and in 1995 he was in Motorola team, same team as Lance Armstrong much before he had cancer and started to dominate the Tour de France.

Portet d'Aspet is a steep climb, no doubt. Usually included together with its neighbour and also very steep Col de Mente. It was in the descent towards Col de Mente with passages at 17% that Fabio crashed. Since the very first moment TV images showed how bad the crash was for Fabio. Even if other cyclists crashed with him and went off the road, he was not moving, laying on the road. Fatal crash.

Little later it was built a nice sculpture of a wheel with flying wings. This place has become a pilgrimage destination for many cyclist, to remember Fabio and the fatal crash in 1995.

Portet d'Aspet, just 1060 mts but it is a steep climb!

La Voie Fignon, climbing Tourmalet from Luz St Sauveur

This is the crossroad where the old road begins

La Voie Fignon is the old road of the Tourmalet climb, on the Luz St Sauveur side, connecting the small village Bareges with almost the top of the mythic climb. This road, with a total length of 4190 mts, is much nicer and narrower that the big road you take today, has been kept just for cyclists, and other vehicles cannot get in. It has become a pilgrimage destination for cyclists all over the world. It was named after Laurent Fignon, the great french cyclist, a little after his death in 2010.

As cars don't get in, the maintenance of the road may be scarce. It is recommended to take this road on the way up to Col du Tourmalet, and then descending to Luz St Sauveur in the much wider new road, or you can also descend to Sta Marie de Campan following the main road.

The new road was built to improve the access to the Bareges ski station.

Great painting of Laurent Fignon

Laurent Fignon was one of the best french cyclists in the '80 and he won the Tour de France in 1983 and 1984. Also, he lost Tour de France by just 8 seconds in 1989 in front of Greg Lemond (the tightest difference in Tour de France history). Another significant victory was the Giro d'Italia year 1989. He passed away in 2010 at the youg age of 53 after a cancer.

The top of Col du Tourmalet

Transpyrenees cycling trip, a different trip for everyone

Steep road leading to Burdinkurutxeta!

One of the nicest things about the Transpyrenees cycling trip is that you can fully customize the trip depending on your needs. The only mandatory thing ig getting from the Atlantic ocean to the Mediterranean sea, or opposite, from the Mediterranean Sea to the Atlantic Ocean.

Of course Tourmalet is one of the highlights of thr trip!

The classical Hendaye Cerbere trip is organised by the french Cyclo Club Bearnais, based in Pau. It is a fixed route with 720 km that must be done in less than 100 hours. Such a challenge!
The route includes some of the very big climbs such as Aubisque and Tourmalet. Unfortunately it includes also some busy roads as Col de Puymorens which is not exactly the type of experience a cyclist would like when riding in the Pyrenees.

The classical Hendaye Cerbere Transpyrenees card!

As said before, there are many different ways to plan this trip. First, let's say that the right direction to lead is going back home. Then, for a catalan rider, it should be west to east from Atlantic to Mediterranean. For a basque cyclist the opposite, from Mediterranean to the Atlantic. For a foreigner similar thing, if you are flying back home from Barcelona you should make weat to east, ending in the Mediterranean. Simple answer to this: once you ended the trip you don't want to get a train or a car for 700 km more!

Port de Bales, amazing!

Planning the trip is part of the same trip. You can make the trip as long as your vacation is, and you can also include as many famous climbs you want. If you are travelling along the Pyrenees you don't want to skip those famous mountains as Col du Tourmalet, Aubisque, Aspin, Peyresourde... Those are the classical ascents! But during the years just by watching the Tour de France stages you see that you have a lot of possibilities. Let me suggest a couple climbs which are between the nicest in the Pyrenees and should be included in every Transpyrenees trip: Port de Bales and Port de Pailheres.
A very good choice is doing the trip in 7-8 stages about 100 km long.

Coll de la Creueta, solitaire unknown road

The Hendaye Cerbere and most of the usual Transpyrenees trips go along french roads, but the spanish side is also plenty of nice choices. Just let me point amazing and beautiful ascents as Port de la Bonaigua, Coll de la Creueta or Coll de Cantó. Also, some of the ascents which are just on the border between Spain and France: Pierre St Martin and Port de Larrau (terribly steep!).

More things: There are basically 2 ways of doing the Transpyrenees trip: supported (with a sag van) or selfsupported (with a rack and panniers). First one is about lightness, safety, being confortable, riding faster, having suport in case of bad weather. Second one is about adventure, adventure and adventure. You choose!!

The toughest cycling climbs in the Pyrenees

Port d'Envalira, the highest asphalted climb in the Pyrenees!!

It is very difficult to make a ranking of the most demanding cycling climbs in the Pyrenees. Some days ago was unveiled the Tour de France 2018 route and one of the new climbs included is Col du Portet, said to be the new Tourmalet by the TdF director, not a joke... Still to be asphalted the last part (so far it is just asphalted to Pla d'Adet, at 1680 mts) this new climb will have real big numbers, and will deserve to be among the king climbs in the Pyrenees.

Col de Portet, the novelty for Tdf 2018

If you are interested to know the best climbs all over the Pyrenees there are a couple of lists you should know.

Col de Tourmalet, the king

Highest cycling climbs in the Pyrenees (asfalted):
Port d'Envalira (Andorra/France): 2407 mts height
Port de Cabus (Andorra, just one side) 2300 mts height
Gavarnie-Boucharo (Luz St Sauveur-France) 2270 mts height
Col de Portet (St Lary Soulan-France) 2215 mts height
Cim de Coma Morera (Bourg Madame) 2205 mts height

Pierre St Martin, such a climb!

Cycling climbs with more elevation in the Pyrenees:
Port d'Envalira 1687 mts elevation (from Ax les Thermes)
Col de Pailheres 1601 mts elevation (from Axat)
Gavarnie-Boucharo 1560 mts elevation (from Luz St Sauveur)
Pierre St Martin 1510 mts elevation (from Arette)
Col du Tourmalet 1405 mts elevation (from Luz St Sauveur)
Col de Portet 1400 mts elevation (from St Lary Soulan)

Great climb to Col de Burdinkurutxeta!

Cycling climbs with the highest average gradient in the Pyrenees:
Erroymendi (from Laugibar) 9,58% for 10,2 km
Burdinkurutxeta (from Bassaburua) 8,76% for 9,3 km
Col de Mente (from St Beat) 8,70% km for 9,7 km
Artzamendi (from Itxassou) 8,61% for 10,3 km

Vallter 2000, a not-so-known climb in the Pyrenees

At the top of the climb, where there is a Ski resort

Vallter 2000 is one of the gems of the spanish Pyrenees.

Reaching 2114 mts height, the total length of the climb is 11,2 km from Setcases with 7% average gradient and some full kilometers at 10%. Steep, very steep!

Great views while climbing (Picture by Sergi Ros de Mora)

This climb has just one side, then when included in a race it has to be stage ending. This has been the case in Volta a Catalunya years 1986 (winner Juan Fernández), 1992 (winner Tony Rominger, ahead of A.Martin and a certain Indurain...), 2013 (Nairo Quintana), 2014 (winner T. Van Garderen) and 2019 (Adam Yates).

Here you can see the Strava segment for this climb. There is a certain Steven Kruiswijk as KOM... A real climber, no doubt.

La Molina ski station, again in the Volta a Catalunya 2017 route

Purito Rodríguez, winner in 2014 (Picture by Sergi Ros de Mora)

La Molina, one of the most famous Ski stations in Catalonia, will be in 2017 (for the 4^th time in a row) stage ending in Volta a Catalunya Pro race. It will be on 2017 March 22^nd.

So far, La Molina was included in 2014(winner Purito Rodríguez), 2015 (winner Tejay Van Garderen) and 2016(winner Daniel Martin).

Stage arriving to La Molina in 2014 edition

Curiously, just in 2014 edition, the winner at La Molina (Purito Rodríguez) was also the winner of final GC. In 2015, Tejay Van Garderen was not even in top ten, and winner was australian Richie Porte. In 2016, Dan Martin was 3rd, after Nairo Quintana (winner) and Alberto Contador. Anyway, any cyclist fighting for GC shouldn't be far from the lead in 2017...

Stage arriving to La Molina in 2015 edition

Stage arriving to La Molina in 2016 edition

As you can see in joined profiles, usually stage finishing at La Molina is the queen stage of Volta a Catalunya. Being located in Barcelona province, between Barcelona or Girona area and La Cerdanya region. It is not specially steep (see profile below), but it usually comes after several first category climbs, as Collada de Toses, La Creueta or Coll de Coubet.

Profile of La Molina from Das (Cerdanya)

From Barcelona city to Col du Tourmalet

Mythical Tourmalet

This is a very special trip. An experience you will enjoy just once in your life.
You will be able to put together one of the most touristic cities in the world, Barcelona, with the most known cycling climb all over the world. Cycling history has been written in Col de Tourmalet, and also in other cols you will climb in this adventure.

We will make you to enjoy this trip. Do not worry about any other thing but cycling.
Our guide will lead you to the nicest roads, and your goal is reaching Col du Tourmalet 7 days and 13 cols after we began in Barcelona. Our van will transport your luggage, and you will have it at the end of every stage.

If you are a cycling club or some friends wanting to do the same tour selfguided, or in other dates, just let us know. We can even customize stages. Do noy hesitate, and join us in this adventure.


Stage 1: Barcelona-Viladrau. About 100 km to get out of Barcelona taking the bike lane beside river Besos, and afterwards leading to Montseny area, where you will climb the nicest col in the area: Coll Formic. Solitaire road, great views, ideal for cycling.

Coll Formic, unknown but fantastic!

Stage 2: Viladrau-Ripoll. After crossing Les Guilleries range of mountains, you will lead to Coll de Condreu, leaving behind one of the nicest villages in Catalunya: Rupit. Afterwards you will get the vulcanic area of La Garrotxa and its capital Olot. In Olot begins the second important climb of the day: Coll de Canes.

Stage 3: Ripoll-Puigcerdà. Today you will climb a precious col, not very known, although Volta a Catalunya pro race has been there several times. Coll de la Creueta, an espectacular mountain road with great views. Afterwards we will get to Collada de Toses, a long, beautiful and not very steep climb. Arrival to Puigcerdà, capital of Cerdanya area. We are already in the Pyrenees.

Stage 4: Puigcerdà-La Seu d'Urgell. This is not a very long stage, but it is really challenging. The goal is reaching Port d'Envalira, 2407 mts, the  highest asphalted pass of whole Pyrenees (understanding pass as a climb between two valleys, not a "cul de sac" climb). Long and fast descent to Andorra, the buyers paradise, and arrival at La Seu d'Urgell.

Coll de Cantó, long, steep, ... spectacular

Stage 5: La Seu d'Urgell-Esterri d'Aneu. It is not definitely a rest stage, although just one first category climb could be a kind of. Coll de Cantó is a tough climb, but once at the top, the main difficulties are done. Once in the valley you will cross Sort town (translation: "Luck"). Maybe it is worth stopping to buy some lottery?

Port de la Bonaigua, Pyrenees...

Stage 6: Esterri d'Aneu-Bagneres de Luchon. Two very different but both demanding climbs: La Bonaigua is a long ascent, over 2000 mts high, long but steep. Portillon is the pass connecting Spain to France, short and very steep. Arrival to France. We are getting closer the final challenge.

Stage 7: Bagneres de Luchon-Tourmalet. Just 77 km, but such an epic stage. History of Tour de France was written here. The trilogy Peyresourde-Aspin-Tourmalet has been a classic in Tour de France. Tourmalet is the final destination of our trip, the final challenge. After reaching the summit you can descend by bike or in the van, as you already got the end of the trip. This night you will sleep again in Bagneres de Luchon where you can have a relaxing bath in the thermal baths of the town. Deserved.

Last Day. Come back to Barcelona. About 5 hours drive to Barcelona.